AIM Weathering Powders
| Code |
Description |
Price A$ |
| 3101 |
White |
$9.00 |
| 3102 |
Grimy Black |
$9.00 |
| 3103 |
Medium Earth |
$9.00 |
| 3104 |
Dirty Yellow |
$9.00 |
| 3105 |
Dark Rust |
$9.00 |
| 3106 |
Light Rust |
$9.00 |
| 3107 |
Dark Earth |
$9.00 |
| 3108 |
Medium Rust |
$9.00 |
| 3109 |
New Fresh Rust |
$9.00 |
| 3110 |
Medium Grey |
$9.00 |
| 3111 |
Dark Grey |
$9.00 |
| 3112 |
Brick Red |
$9.00 |
| 3113 |
Dusty Brown |
$9.00 |
| 3100 |
Set of 8 weathering powders consisting of one each of 3101 to 3107 and 3110. |
$65.00 |
AIM Weathering Powder Stand
| Code |
Description |
Price A$ |
| BMAIM1 |
AIM Weathering Powder Stand (fluro blue, green, pink, orange) |
$16.00 |
How to use AIM weathering powders.
There are several basic methods and approaches to using AIM powders and
we are sure you will probably develop a few of your own. These powders are intended to make rolling stock,
buildings, and detail pieces look old, dirty, dusty, rusty, faded, and generally the worse for wear
after being exposed to the elements of weather, travel, pollution, and mechanical wear and tear.
These powders aer quite intense so please put some paper under the model you are weathering to
catch any excess and reduce chances of making any mess
Rust occurs when steel is exposed to the weather and a chemical reaction called oxidation takes place.
The rust may occur as a general overall discolouration on the surface that starts as a lighter more orange
colour. As rust itself is exposed to the weather it progressively becomes darker or browner in colour.
Therefore, several shades of rust on the same wagon are appropriate. Using a fairly stiff artist's brush
or a cosmetic sponge(a small wedge shaped sponge, they come in packs of 30 for about $2.00 or so) scrub some of
the rust colour onto the surface, working it into cracks and crevices. Rust will wash down the side of a
wagon so put some near the top and draw down the side of the wagon with a bit a powder as if the rust
washed down from the effects of rain and gravity. Randomly use a second colour of rust to highlight other
areas or put a bit right over some of the previously applied rust. Apply powder to roof walks, door guides,
wheels, bogies, etc.
Dust and dirt usually start at the bottom of the wagon and work their way up from wind currents
created when moving. Therefore the dust and earthen colours maybe applied near the bottom
edge of the wagons and sort of streaked upwards. Concentrate more colour near the ends of the wagon and a bit of
dust or dirt on the roof will help dirt up the wagon.
Experiment with the colours, blend different ones together to get new colours, be creative. When you get a
wagon to where you want it you may want to seal it with dullcote spray, this will permanently attach the powder
and reduce chances of it rubbing off. If you weather a wagon and do not seal it you can remove the powder with a damp
cloth and start again.
The same applies to buildings. A bit of black on chimneys, vents, etc. Blend a red colour with a
brown to get a dirty brick colour to apply to sides of the buildings.
Experiment with a small amount of powder mixed with a small amount of non-aerosol hairspray (use a cheap superhold
hairspray or a non-aerosol pump type hairspray) to make a coloured paste.
With a brush stab some paste onto steel grinders and when dry you get a flaky, almost 3-D scaly type of rust.
Have some fun and remember not all wagons are rust buckets. Some wagons may never rust and show only a minimum of
dirt and others have much more. Do not forget the insides of gondolas, decks of flatcars, and the tops and
sides of covered hoppers. Observe the wagons and buildings you come across and try to make some of your wagons,
buildings, engines, and equipment look more like them rather than new from the box. Your friends will be
amazed with the improvements and ask "How did you do that?"